Блок Питания На Lt1083Cp
Posted By admin On 06.09.19Folks, all LT1083CP regulators that are being sold on eBay and Ali/AliExpress are fakes and worse yet old used (pulled) fakes. I have actual original and authentic LT1083CP parts (5 of them). It is virtually impossible to find genuine parts in new or even used condition today. Practically all listings and sellers that claim to be selling genuine parts are either ignorant of their fake stock or are just outright lying. There are virtually no new LT1083CP parts available for sale anywhere in the world today. Any scarce remaining new old stock parts are stashed away in practically forgotten company inventories and finding them, let alone buying them, is like finding a new diamond mine.
Схема блока питания не отличается оригинальностью. Это компиляция нескольких схем и информации из Datasheet на микросхему LT1083CP.
If the part is coming from anywhere but the United States or Canada, it is 100% guaranteed to be either an authentic old part pulled from equipment (0.01% chance) or a fake (99.99% chance). If the part is coming from United States or Cananda, it is 99% guaranteed to be fake, no matter what the seller claims. I can post a link to a picture if anyone needs to see what a real relatively new old stock LT1083CP (with Pb (lead) ) package looks like.
- Мощный блок питания на 245W (Радиоконструктор) с Алиэкспресс - Duration: 7:57. Регулируемый блок питания - модуль регулировки тока и напряжения - Duration: 12:17. Electronics and Kо.
- Это, к примеру, блоки питания на 9 В, которые используются для гитарных педалей эффектов.
This is a partial translation. I will try my best, but my Russian is horrible: Ребята, почти все регуляторы LT1083CP которие можно купить на eBay и Aли подделки. У меня есть оригиналы и фотографии их. Есле что я могу оставит ссилку на фото. Update: Here is a link to a photograph of a real LT1083CP next to a fake that I bought on eBay: Again I apologize for my poor Russian. Translation: Вот ссылка на фотографии. Настоящий LT1083CP рядом с подделкой купленой на eBay.
Есть много вариантов подделок: Sorry, you will have to use Google translate for the following paragraph, because it is well beyond my Russian ability. The following criteria can be used to distinguish a real LT1083CP from a fake: Examine the font used for the word Linear. In particular, pay attention to the shapes of the letters 'n', 'e' and 'r.' Lines two and three below the logo should be fully justified - the left and right sides should vertically align. Also, pay attention to the number of digits present in line three.
There should be eight of them. An e3 symbol may follow the digits, but I don't have a real sample of this variant to show you - genuine samples of this newer variant are even more rare. Pay attention to the correctness of the shape of the logo itself - its bevels and curves as well as the shape of the formed enclosed ellipse. The boldness of the lettering in lines two and three is a dead giveaway of a fake. The quality of white in the print is very important as is the fact that the print is white (not red, orange, brown or of poor resolution and quality), bold and of the correct font.
The shape of the central pin coming out of the regulator and the pointedness and beveling of the bottoms of all pins are significant. The position on the top of the regulator where the tab was cut when the part was removed from its mold should be centered with the central pin, not to the left and not to the right - perfectly horizontally centered on top. Print should be visible and readable in both the left and right indentation circles near the top of the face of the part. The left indentation should state the country of origin - most likely Thailand. The right circle contains an alphanumeric code (e.g., B46).
The Chinese may be good at cloning parts, but they are horrible at preserving details in print. If you know what to look for, you can 99.9% of the time identify a fake by visual inspection alone. I hope that these images help you. If you have any additional questions, feel free to ask (in Russian or English). Also, if you are paying much less than $10 for one, even used, you are getting a Chinese fake. Here is a full size zoomed in image of the genuine regulator (sorry about the ISO6400 grain). I hope that these images help you.
If you have any additional questions, feel free to ask (in Russian or English). Also, if you are paying much less than $10 for one, even used, you are getting a Chinese fake. Спасибо за подробный отчет и приведенные фотографии. Хотелось бы уточнить детали. LT1083CP давно сняты с производства? Делаю вывод из Ваших слов, согласно которым оригинал найти сейчас невозможно.
Мои LT1083CP очень похожи на Ваш оригинальный. Вы хотите сказать, что они тоже подделка?
Что оказалось внутри Вашего поддельного LT1083, что изображен справа? Другой стабилизатор, транзистор или просто пластиковый корпус с выводами? Спасибо за подробный отчет и приведенные фотографии. Хотелось бы уточнить детали. LT1083CP давно сняты с производства? Делаю вывод из Ваших слов, согласно которым оригинал найти сейчас невозможно.
Мои LT1083CP очень похожи на Ваш оригинальный. Вы хотите сказать, что они тоже подделка? Что оказалось внутри Вашего поддельного LT1083, что изображен справа? Другой стабилизатор, транзистор или просто пластиковый корпус с выводами?
You're welcome and here are the answers to your three questions: Answer #1. I don't have information about when the LT1083CP was taken off the market, but it was a fairly long time ago (several years if not a full decade). I am sorry to say that your LT1083CP regulators, all three of them, are fakes. This can easily be seen from the lettering of the word Linear, a very common way to tell. For example take a look at the official Linear logo: In particular, look at the letters 'E' and 'R' on your regulators.
Notice how the letter E's top horizontal bar is extends farther to the right than its central horizontal bar? This is wrong. They should both extend to an equal horizontal point on the right (i.e., be right aligned). Also, the letter A's bar should be vertically aligned with the E's central bar. Now let's look at the letter R, which by the way should have no space between it and the letter A before it (yours do). The diagonal part of the R should start very low on its vertical stroke, not near the center like it does on your regulators. The caligraphed L and T that art part of the logo (to the left of the word LINEAR) are also spaced too far apart on your regulators.
This one is not as obvious to the untrained eye. The T's top right corner is also not curved correctly. It should be completely concave at the top right with no convex parts or straight parts to its curve. Likewise, the bottom left corner of the L to the left of it should also be fully concave. Finally, the kerning (i.e., inter-letter spacing) of the letters on both lines two and three is off.
Notice how far the L is from the T at the start of line two. This shows horrible kerning, something the Chinese just cannot get right with Latin letters, because, well, they just have no experience with them.
You would think that whatever software they use would take care of this, but apparently they are just too stupid to use American software to generate English text. The two indentation circles are also wrong. The country of origin should be in the left one, written along the path of its circumference. The right one should have an alphanumeric code - not a numeric code, not emptiness and not a just alpha or just numeric code. Also, the alphanumeric code should not be rotated - it should be right side up. Finally, the alpha numeric code should most likely be different on each regulator. I believe that Linear incremented the digits, so even consecutive regulators from the same production run had different incrementing numbers and letters.
If all of the alpha-numeric codes are the same, you either won the (parts) lottery and have one heck of a coincidence or far more likely, you have fakes. There are other signs of these being fakes, but I think I've already said enough. The fakes I received have not yet been tested. I am trying to come up with a test rig, so that I can see if they are: a. Regulators at all b. Work or are bricks c. Assuming they are regulators and do work at least partially: i.
How well do they regulate voltage (line/load regulation characteristics)? How much current they can source?
How much do they heat up under load? Then I will throw out the trash and keep whichever are decent, if any.
In any case, how bad fale regulators perform is always a gamble. Some are better, some are worse. None will perform 100% according to the spec sheet, because the goal of the Chinese is to 'slide by' and make a profit, not to produce, test and qualify products.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. Sorry for posting this completely in English, but it would take me days to write this in even somewhat understandable first grade Russian, if that was even possible. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. Sorry for posting this completely in English, but it would take me days to write this in even somewhat understandable first grade Russian, if that was even possible. Спасибо за подробный ответ. Свои поддельные LT1083CP я уже проверил. Отчет опубликовал выше.
Они являются стабилизаторами, но плохими. Из-за этого стал плохо думать о такой хорошей компании, как LT, которая всегда отличалась оригинальными схемотехническими решениями на фоне остальных компаний, например NS, TI, Maxim и пр. Интересно, что же именно китайцы разместили внутри пластикового корпуса? Некоторые свои микросхемы я взломал. Есть к Вам просьба. Не выкидывайте свои микросхемы просто в мусорную корзину. Опубликуйте фотографии внутренностей.
Это будет полезно всем, кто занимается электроникой. Я плохо пишу по-английски, читаю лучше, а автоматический перевод, обычно, ужасен, поэтому прошу простить за ответ на русском, не на английском языке. PS Я вижу Вы грамотный и осведомленный любитель электроники.
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Скажите, ситуация с линейными стабилизаторами National Semiconductor такая же печальная? Тоже доступны только подделки?
А оригиналы сняты с производства. Я плохо пишу по-английски, читаю лучше, а автоматический перевод, обычно, ужасен, поэтому прошу простить за ответ на русском, не на английском языке.
Hi, please reply in Russian. Again, I apologize for writing my replies in English. Я себя веду очень некультурно на этом форуме с моими Английскими постами так что простите. I can understand about 75-90% of what you are saying in Russian without the help of Google Translate.
If in doubt I use Google Translate to supplement my understanding. Unfortunately, I will have to reply in English. If I use Russian, these posts will look like they are written by a six year old kid with age appropriate content to match (i.e., far less detailed and informative). They will also take one hundred times longer for me to write. OK, now let me address your concerns.
Свои поддельные LT1083CP я уже проверил. Отчет опубликовал выше. Они являются стабилизаторами, но плохими. Из-за этого стал плохо думать о такой хорошей компании, как LT, которая всегда отличалась оригинальными схемотехническими решениями на фоне остальных компаний, например NS, TI, Maxim и пр. Интересно, что же именно китайцы разместили внутри пластикового корпуса? Некоторые свои микросхемы я взломал.
I have read your comments above and examined your pictures. Your results are typical with counterfeit semiconductors in general. Я вижу Вы грамотный и осведомленный любитель электроники. Скажите, ситуация с линейными стабилизаторами National Semiconductor такая же печальная? Тоже доступны только подделки?
А оригиналы сняты с производства. Yes, the situation of Chinese fakes spans all popular brands - NS, TI, LT and most other semiconductor manufacturers.
However, all is not lost with regard to linear regulators. There is currently a single high current linear regulator family that is still in production, ensuring that you can order original new parts from reputable suppliers/distributors. This is the Texas Instruments LM1084IT: It is not as powerful as the LT1083CP, but it is more powerful than the LT1084CT. That is, the LM1084IT has a current MIN./TYP. Rating of 5.5 A/8.0 A as compared to 5.5 A/6.5 A for the LT1084 and 8.0 A/9.5 A for the LT1083. The good news is that it is still being manufactured by Texas Instruments and is being sold in a TO-220 package (i.e., easier to heat sink, mount and space on a PCB). This is the part I personally recommend for new designs that require a linear regulator.
The LM1084IT is also inexpensive costing only $2.84 in single unit quantities and as little as $1.12 in quantities of 1,000 or more: Other performance characteristics of the LM1084IT are practically identical to the LT1083/LT1084. There are also LM1085/LM1086 variations which offer 3.0 A and 1.5 A typical current capabilities, respectively. Of course, if you try to buy LM1084IT parts on eBay or AliExpress, you WILL get fakes.
Блок Питания 12в 2а
The only way to get real parts is to buy them from a supplier/distributor with proven traceable sourcing from Texas Instruments. I hope I have been helpful and as always, feel free to ask any additional questions. I hope I have been helpful and as always, feel free to ask any additional questions. Вы рекламируете LM1084, как вариант менее подверженный подделке, но я не вижу преимуществ у LM1084 перед LM338T. Кроме минимального напряжения в 1.5В против 3В при максимальном токе 5А, однако для линейного стабилизатора это не критичный параметр. В то же время LM338T способен рассеивать 50Вт мощности, в отличии от 30Вт у LM350T и LM1084 в том же корпусе TO220. У меня есть LM338T и LM350T.
Блок Питания На Lt1083cp
LM338T куплен здесь: LM350T куплен здесь: Как Вы считаете, они также поддельные. Как Вы считаете, они также поддельные: Yes, these are definitely fakes. You can tell from the logo being drawn incorrectly, this is how it should look (just the logo on the left). Once again, whoever drew the logos on those fakes was no artist: Also, the lettering is in an awful font and color - it should be light gray to white, not orange, yellow, brown or any other variant. It should also be crisp and easily legible with no halos, outlines, shadows, dithering or other artifacts due to a bad print. In answer to your other question, LM1084 vs LM338, that's a matter of taste.
They are very similar and the LM1084 is a newer design, but I can't really give you an easy answer as to why the LM1084 is better, without carefully comparing specs. From what I remember, the LM1084 has better load regulation characteristics across its temperature range, but I am not positive of that.
I'll have to think about that further, because as you said, the LM338 has a voltage range advantage.
Подписывайтесь на нашу группу Вконтакте —, и Facebook —. Бывают случаи, когда требуется источник питания с регулируемым напряжением и довольно большим током, порядка 5А, но по тем или иным причинам такой источник не всегда имеется под рукой или попросту отсутствует в домашней мастерской. Однако, можно легко и быстро собрать такой блок питания, применив микросхему LT1083CP. Давайте рассмотрим её поподробнее:Серия регулируемых стабилизаторов положительного напряжения LT1083/84/85 разработана, чтобы обеспечить стабилизацию для токов 7.5, 5 и 3А соответственно. Наиболее мощным стабилизатором является LT1083, а вся серия целиком относится к LOW DROP стабилизаторам, т.е внутренняя схемотехника микросхемы разработана так, чтобы обеспечить работу при разности напряжений вход-выход до 1 В, причем падение напряжения полностью является функцией тока нагрузки.